A breaker that goes back out with a worn bushing comes home as a rebuild. Okada America needed a video a yard tech can follow before a unit is rented and after it comes back, on the same form every time. Beacon made that the inspection, in under 14 minutes.
The video is the checks on the reconditioning form, not a tour of the product line. In the demo, the bushing gap they measure is past the maximum on the chart for that model, so that breaker stays in for repair instead of going back into service. Those limits are Okada's, printed on the form. They are not a Beacon test result. The video is there so the next tech does not skip the gap, the tool, or the nitrogen before the machine leaves the yard.
Another company hiring Beacon for a rental-inspection video is buying the training that used to live in one person's head. A shop manual can list every charge pressure and every hour interval. A tech turning a breaker around between rentals usually will not read that far. The video can. It can play in the shop, sit in a dealer portal, or be what a new hire watches before they touch the form.
Okada did not need a shorter brochure about demolition tools. They needed every yard to inspect the breaker the same way, and to hold the one that is out of spec. That is what this video is for.
Read transcript Video dialogue and narration
[00:00.000] Welcome to Okada America, the makers of the best demolition attachment tools in the world and the masters of demolition and recycling. This video will show you how to perform all the necessary checks to the Okada hydraulic breaker before it's rented and after it's returned. Plus it will explain how to fill out the reconditioning inspection form and checklist. Let's get started by filling in the breaker model serial number or unit number and if it's a rental in or rental out. Now let's move on to step one, measure and record the tool length and tool bushing clearance.
[00:50.080] To check the clearance between the front cap bushing and tool, you'll need to use a taper or feeler gauge. On the tool end of the hydraulic breaker, place the gauge between the bushing and the tool and measure the clearance between the bushing and tool. Then use the chart on page one of the inspection form to look up the model number of the hydraulic breaker you're inspecting to see what the maximum gap should be. In our demonstration, we're looking for model number top 270. On the form you'll find this model has a maximum allowable clearance of 12mm.
[01:23.200] Our measurement shows this unit has a 13mm clearance which means this unit is out of spec and will need to be repaired before being placed back into service. If the clearance exceeds the maximum allowable gap, a level two rebuild will need to be done which consists of replacing the bushing, seals, chisel set pins and a new working tool. Running the hydraulic breaker out of spec will damage the breaker and lead to expensive repairs. Once you're finished measuring this gap, record your findings on the inspection form.
[01:57.400] For step number two on the breaker inspection form, we want you to record the length of the working tool to measure its wear. To do this, manually shove the tool inside the hydraulic breaker as far as it will go until it stops. Then measure the tool from the front of the bushing housing to the tip of the tool. In this case, the tool is 31 inches in length. On page three, you'll see a look-up chart listing the model numbers of the different Okada hydraulic breakers. Look for your model number in these columns.
[02:29.900] In our demonstration, we're looking for the top 270. You'll find the wear limit for this tool is 20.8 inches for a working tool pushed in by hand. Our tool measures 31 inches in length so this tool is still in good working order. Compare the measurements you've taken to the chart and if the tool you're inspecting is shorter than the specifications listed, the tool must be replaced. Now record the length of the tool you measured on the inspection form. Moving on, inspect the top of the tool near the front cap bushing.
[03:03.620] There should always be a chisel paste present which shows you're greasing the tool properly. This may be performed by either auto lube or hand greasing. If you notice the bit looks wet and coated in oil, it indicates the seals are probably leaking inside the hammer cylinder and dripping down the bit. If you see this, you will need a new seal kit. Next, you should inspect the tip of the tool to see if it's in good, fair or poor condition. This one looks good. However, if it were mushroomed out around the sides, that would indicate an operator
[03:38.260] was hammering too long in one spot which would give the tool a poor condition. Now write the condition of the tool on the inspection form. Refer to page 3 of the inspection form for examples of conditions. Next on the list is step number 3. Check, adjust and record the nitrogen charges. This should be done every 3 months and before renting the unit out. It's important to check this because low nitrogen pressure may reduce the impact force and cushioning which can lead to damage of the unit.
[04:11.980] To perform this step, we'll be checking the pressure of the back cap first. On the top of the power cell, look for the outer cover of the back cap nitrogen port which is standard on all breakers. Remove this outer cover with a wrench or a socket to expose the inner dust cap. Now remove the inner dust cap and screw in the nitrogen check fill gauge that's supplied with the breaker. Then lightly snug it in with a wrench. Once it's snug, you can turn or spin the gauge clockwise by hand which threads it down
[04:46.780] to get your reading. You can now refer to page 2 of the inspection form and look in the back cap N2 gas pressure range column to determine the proper nitrogen pressure for the model of breaker you're inspecting. In our case, we're looking at the pressure for the top 270 which should be between 36 and 43 PSI. Our unit checks out fine with a reading of 38 PSI so we can mark our measurement on the line provided on the inspection form. If your measurements show a need to add more nitrogen, use the Okada nitrogen charge kit
[05:25.700] part number 300N2 that's available from your local Okada dealer. Connect and hand tighten the gauge to the nitrogen fill nipple then fill the breaker unit with the proper amount of nitrogen by watching the gauge as it fills. When you're finished, remove the hose and nitrogen gauge. You can also leak test the charge port before reinstalling the dust cap especially if a low nitrogen charge was found. This can be done by pouring a small amount of hydraulic fluid into the charge port and
[06:00.520] checking for bubbles. If you find no gas leak, you can now replace both the inner dust cap and the back cap nitrogen port cover cap. Next, for hydraulic breakers that have a high pressure accumulator, we will check the nitrogen charge of this unit. To check this, you'll need a wrench to remove the valve port protective cover located on the side of the nitrogen accumulator. Next, you'll need to remove the charge port cover on the top of this unit and then screw in the charge gauge. Once it's in, slightly snug tighten the charge gauge with a wrench.
[06:38.040] When this is finished, use an Allen wrench to open the valve to the charge gauge which you removed the cover from earlier. When the valve has been opened, you'll be able to read the nitrogen pressure level. Refer to page 2 of the inspection form to find your model number and the built-in accumulator pressure requirements for the model you're inspecting. In our demonstration, the model number is the top 270 and the nitrogen PSI level should be 870 PSI. This unit checks out good, so no nitrogen gas needs to be added.
[07:13.860] You can now mark your nitrogen PSI level on the inspection form shown here. However, if the levels are low, you can simply add more nitrogen by connecting the nitrogen tank hose to the check gauge and add more gas just like you did when you filled the back cap nitrogen port. When you're finished, close the nitrogen port valve on the side of the high pressure nitrogen accumulator with an Allen wrench, remove the nitrogen tank filling hose, bleed off the gas in the gauge by poking the stem with an Allen wrench or another tool, remove the check
[07:49.140] gauge and replace the protective covers on both ports and snug them with a wrench. Now let's move on to step number four, check the bracket. Start by looking for rusty washers, which indicate the bolt may be loose. You also want to check to make sure the front bolts, also referred to as cross bolts, are tight. You can use white paint on the nuts and the bolts to mark them. If the painted lines don't line up, it will show you that the nut is loosening. Next, inspect the front bolt to make sure it's tight.
[08:22.220] Here, the box bracket is shown as having only one front bolt. This still needs to be checked for correct torque a couple times a year. You should also check the side rod back nuts for tightness. You can do this through the inspection cover. This would also be a good time to inspect the rubber dampers, which provide preload on the power cell to prevent damage. Now look for cracks all around the welds or any cracks around the ears or where the pins go in. Step five, check the condition of the hoses and couplers.
[08:57.940] Start by inspecting the coupler condition and then check it with a wrench to make sure it's tight. Now inspect each hose and section. Make sure you inspect the full length of each hose. You're looking for areas that are worn or could break during years. One hose should always be replaced. You also want to inspect the auto lube system pump and all the hoses going to it. On some models, this is usually protected by a cover plate, which will need to be removed in order to inspect this area.
[09:28.940] Depicted here is a box housed configured breaker. Once the plate is removed, you can check the condition of the auto lube pump, the hoses and the connections while also looking for leaks. When you're finished, the plate can be put back on. Next, if you have a box housed breaker, look for missing or damaged rubber plugs that will help keep the water and dirt out of the bushing housing. The next steps, six, seven and eight, can only be performed with a hydraulic breaker attached to the excavator.
[10:02.340] Step six will require you to check the auxiliary circuit relief pressure and operating pressure. You will also want to confirm the proper settings on the carrier to prevent poor performance and potential damage. To do this, attach the hydraulic gauge shown here to the pressure side of the circuit using a T attachment that will fit the equipment you're inspecting. Once the gauge is attached, go to the return side of the circuit on the excavator stick and close the valve using a wrench.
[10:30.780] Now that the hydraulic pump is deadheaded, check the circuit relief pressure reading by activating the circuit. As you can see, our pressure reading is 3000 PSI. Now go to page two of the inspection form and find the model breaker you're using in the left column and then look in the circuit relief valve set at column. In our case, the model we used for this demonstration is the top 100 and you can see its circuit relief valve setting should be at 3000 PSI, which it is. This unit checks out fine.
[11:05.960] You can now open the return side valve and move on to the next step under section number six. Operate the breaker for 10 to 15 seconds to verify the operating pressure. Also, adjust the oil flow as needed. Low operating pressure means you will increase the flow. High operating pressure means you will decrease the flow. To do this, place the tip of the hydraulic breaker onto a steel plate and run it for 10 to 15 second bursts to get your operating pressures. Again, refer to the lookup tables on page two of the inspection form and find your model
[11:46.460] number and the operating pressure in the operating pressure column. The breaker in this demonstration is the top 100 and its operating pressure should be between 2030 and 2620, which ours is, so this unit has a proper operating pressure. The next step on the inspection form is to lubricate the breaker. To manually lubricate the breaker, you must have down pressure applied to the tool. Once this has been done, you can now lubricate the breaker's bushing housing until you see the chisel paste coming out from around the chisel set pins and or the bushing around
[12:20.380] the tool. You are now finished lubricating the breaker. This is very important to do, even on new units with auto lube pumps to prime the bushing housing. This may take several tubes of chisel paste. A quick note, while in operation, ensure there's always lubrication on the upper three inches of the tool. Refer to page four of the inspection form for all the detailed requirements and procedures for properly lubricating the breaking tool. In step eight, we'll list some general common sense reminders every operator should know
[12:52.900] and be doing while using their equipment, such as check the hydraulic oil level and filter condition. Change the hydraulic oil every 600 hours and replace the filter every 100 hours. Also, verify the oil is not milky, as this will indicate contamination. Your inspection is now complete, and it's time to properly store the breaker. To store the breaker, place a block under one end to help with water runoff. Also, make sure the breaker is properly greased before storing it outside. Thank you for using Okada products, and we hope this video will be helpful in maintaining
[13:31.860] your equipment. If you have any questions or need assistance, please call your local product support representative.